Looking for a sweet and spicy treat? Try these Ghanaian plantains

Afia Amoako exemplifies the positive potential of social media.

On her Instagram page, @eatwithafia, Amoako not only demonstrates culinary techniques but also addresses the scientific, political, cultural and environmental aspects behind traditional Ghanaian dishes. One day she might discuss the history of millet and the next, how to make a soft yeast-raised Ghanaian tea bread. She even offers a free 10-week course, with individual lessons covering topics from climate and demography to a master-class on Ghanaian fermentation.

A researcher by training, Amoako lives in Toronto and is currently pursuing her PhD in epidemiology. Her wealth of knowledge and desire to document decades of memories and lessons, and to share her culture and journey with Ghanaian food inspired her first book, Eat with Afia: A Celebration of Plant-Based Ghanaian Cooking.

Dedicated to her mother and all the women before her who shaped their culinary traditions, the book begins with an overview of the Ghanaian pantry and methods for processing ingredients – fermentation, milling, roasting, spice blends, and plant-based milks made with cashews, coconut and tigernut.

The more than 100 thoroughly-tested and researched recipes that follow replicate the meals she grew up on, such as plantain and cassava-based fufu and her well-loved jollof rice, along with dishes that provide a connection to West African culinary traditions – all from a plant-based perspective.

Pumpkin spice overnight oats are nourishing – any time of day

Spiced ripe plantain recipes, writes Amoako, are ubiquitous across southern Ghana. Kelewele is a nighttime street food consisting of soft ripe plantains cut into pieces, spiced and deep-fried.

“When I was a child, every evening my uncle would come home with a small plastic bag and hand it over to my sister and me,” she wrote in the introduction to this recipe. “Inside this inconspicuous plastic bag was a newspaper soaked in oil, protecting small pieces of deep-fried soft plantains – our dessert to end the day.”

Kelewele

From Amoako: When hot, the soft plantains simply melt in your mouth. Many also use ripe but firm plantains to make kelewele, and there is a fierce debate on whether soft or hard plantains are better in general. You are welcome to use either for this recipe. Kelewele pairs perfectly with salted and roasted peanuts, which provide a savoury contrast to this deliciously sweet treat.

• ½ small onion
• ¼ cup grated fresh ginger
• 2 teaspoons kelewele spice (can be found online or at African or Caribbean grocery stores, or made as instructed below)
• 2 to 3 teaspoons powder pepper/cayenne pepper, to taste
• ½ teaspoon salt
• 4 ripe plantains (either soft or firm, depending on personal preference)
• vegetable oil, for deep-frying
• salted roasted peanuts, for serving

Grate the onion and ginger into a large bowl. Add the kelewele spice, powder pepper/cayenne pepper and salt. Taste to make sure it is spicy.

Half each plantain lengthwise, then cut along the seed line to get four long strips out of each plantain. Cut these strips into bite-size pieces and add them to the large bowl with the onion spice mix. Mix everything together to ensure the plantain pieces are evenly coated. Cover the bowl and marinate for at least 30 minutes.

Line a large plate with paper towels and have near the stove. Fill a large pan or pot two-thirds of the way with vegetable oil. Heat over medium-high heat until a small piece of plantain dropped into the oil sizzles.

Working in batches to avoid overcrowding, fry the plantains until golden brown, flipping the plantains periodically to ensure they are evenly browning. This can take between seven to 10 minutes, as the water in the onion can slow down frying. It is best to gauge doneness based on colour and less on time. Be sure to keep the heat at medium-high, as you need the heat to cook off the extra water that comes from the plantain and the onion/ginger mix.

Use a slotted spoon or spider strainer to remove the fried plantains from the oil and place them on the paper towels to drain.

Serve the kelewele hot with roasted peanuts sprinkled on top. Kelewele is not usually a snack saved for later, but if you must, it can be refrigerated for a few days. Reheat in the air fryer or toaster oven on the toast setting (380°F for 3 minutes). Serves four or 5.

Kelewele spice

• 1 tablespoon calabash nutmeg (regular nutmeg cannot substitute this)
• 2 tablespoons whole cloves
• 1 tablespoon Guinea cubeb (can substitute with grains of paradise or black peppercorns)
• 6 grains of selim (optional)
• 1 star anise

In a pan, toast the spices over medium heat for a few minutes, or until they start to smell fragrant. Add the spices to a spice grinder and grind to a smooth powder. Transfer to an airtight container and store in a cool, dry place for up to six months. Makes about 1/4 cup spice mix.

Excerpted from Eat with Afia: A Celebration of Plant-Based Ghanaian Cooking, by Afia Amoako.