Changing tastes help Poplar Grove expand its view of the Okanagan

During last Saturday’s busy lunch service at Poplar Grove Winery, owner Tony Holler kept an eye on what the restaurant’s guests were drinking. On this sunny October afternoon with a slight nip in the air, staff served glasses of pinot gris, chardonnay and merlot to the various tables, while Holler discussed the continuing evolution of the Okanagan wine industry.

“You can’t ignore consumer preferences,” says Holler, who bought the winery overlooking Okanagan Lake in Penticton, B.C., from founders Ian Sutherland and Valerie Tait in 2007. He explains the quality of Poplar Grove’s red wines, specifically its ripe and complex cabernet franc, was the reason he and his wife Barb purchased the winery.

“That cabernet franc was proof that the Okanagan could grow great grapes and make great wine,” he says.

Working with grapes grown in 160 acres of vineyards, mostly around Naramata with an additional 40 acres located further south in Osoyoos, Poplar Grove has built on a solid reputation for its red wines. Its syrah, cabernet and merlot wines, including its flagship red blend, Legacy, continue to attract critical and commercial acclaim.

To demonstrate the aging potential of these expressive wines, they started re-releasing bottles after 10 years. Next month, a new release of Library Collection wines from 2016 will be offered to wine club members, with a wider release planned for next year.

Meanwhile, the growing popularity of white wines has driven growth in other areas of the portfolio. Pinot gris now accounts for one-third of Poplar Grove’s total production, and according to Holler, it sells out every year.

To meet the demand, the winemaking team is working two shifts per day, around the clock, to process the 2026 harvest. After receiving all the pinot gris grapes, they will move on to chardonnay and viognier grapes, while the red varieties continue to ripen.

Rosé and sparkling wine are recent additions, introduced at the request of wine club members, Holler explains. “We now produce 5,000 cases of rosé.”

After seven years of working with a partner, Holler took over management of the restaurant in October, 2019. While many tourist-based businesses in the Okanagan only operate from April to October, Holler sees an opportunity to cater to guests during the so-called “shoulder season.” The restaurant closes in early December and reopens in March.

“You’re not going to build a business working seasonally,” he says. “I think we’re a good example of what happens when you stay open.”