Merlot from the Okanagan deserves some spotlight. Here are three bottles to try

Although merlot has played an important role in the evolution of British Columbia’s wine industry, it’s less celebrated among winemakers than more expressive red varieties, such as pinot noir, cabernet franc or syrah.

In the 1990s and early 2000s, merlot gained favour among B.C. wineries because it ripens earlier than cabernet franc and cabernet sauvignon, making it a more reliable choice for the Okanagan’s relatively short growing season. Despite its role in producing some of British Columbia’s best bottles, merlot remains an underrated variety, according to Evan Saunders, winemaker at Blasted Church since 2017.

“I don’t think it gets the respect that it should,” he says. “Merlot is one of the most consistent reds that we produce in the valley.”

Waters: In the aftermath of the Okanagan wildfire, winemakers are harvesting grapes with caution

Saunders uses merlot to produce red blends with playful names, such as Big Bang Theory and Nectar of the Gods, as well as single variety examples. “Who doesn’t like its plummy, jammy character, with chocolate and coffee and everything else you get vintage in and vintage out,” he wonders.

Nevertheless, merlot has yet to find its place in the spotlight. Saunders wonders if it’s too successful to be taken seriously.

Before back-to-back cold events in 2022 and 2025 caused widespread crop and vine losses, it was British Columbia’s most widely planted grape, covering nearly 753 hectares, or more than 14.5 per cent of the province’s total vineyard acreage. In the aftermath, grape growers have been replanting damaged vineyards with varieties, such as pinot noir, chardonnay and gamay, which they hope will reduce the threat of frigid temperatures. (Winegrowers of British Columbia plans to release an up-to-date vine census next year that will reflect the changing face of its vineyards.)

Saunders says exploring alternative grapes helps determine what will be successful in vineyards in the Okanagan and other parts of the province. Blasted Church planted nebbiolo near the winery in 2023 and has purchased other Italian grape varieties, including refosco, teroldego, and lagrein, from a grower in the Similkameen.

Italian grapes are well-suited to the increasing temperatures experienced in the southern Okanagan, he explains. (Saunders also produces a tart and refreshing rosé from blaufränkisch, a Slovenian grape variety planted in 1996 on what is now the winery’s estate vineyard in Okanagan Falls.)

“Just because the Bordeaux varieties were planted first doesn’t mean we have to stick with them entirely,” he says. “But merlot is always going to have a place.”

Tony Holler, owner of Poplar Grove in Penticton, believes merlot is enjoying renewed interest among consumers. “Our merlot sells out before our cabernet franc,” he says.

In addition to producing a merlot under its own label, Poplar Grove uses the variety in its flagship red blend, Legacy, alongside cabernet sauvignon, petit verdot, cabernet franc and malbec. The proportions of each grape vary depending on the vintage.

Merlot is also a regular component of Poplar Grove’s annual rosé blend.

Here are three Okanagan wines that display merlot’s star power.

Blasted Church Merlot 2022 (Canada), $34

Rating: 90

Produced with merlot grapes grown in Blasted Church’s estate vineyard on the Skaka Bench appellation, this smooth and concentrated red wine offers a charming mix of savoury, spicy and dark fruit flavours. The full-bodied style gains complexity from chocolate and tobacco notes. This has 14.9-per-cent alcohol by volume and 0.4 grams a litre residual sugar. Drink now to 2030. Available at the above price direct, blastedchurch.com, various prices in Alberta, $34 in Manitoba.

One of Chile’s leading winemakers starts a new chapter in the Okanagan

Painted Rock Merlot 2022 (Canada), $49.99

Rating: 93

Painted Rock Merlot has consistently stood out among the labels produced by the Skinner family at its estate overlooking Skaha Lake. The 2022 vintage is the result of an exceptional growing season, which contributes to the satisfying mix of juicy berry and cherry flavours and savoury oak-derived notes. Like all of Painted Rock’s red wine portfolio, this full-bodied merlot has excellent aging potential because of its serious structure and impressive length. This has 14.6-per-cent ABV and 2.7 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2032. Available at the above price direct, paintedrock.ca, $54.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta.

Poplar Grove Merlot 2022 (Canada), $32.99

Rating: 91

A small percentage of malbec is blended into this flavourful merlot, made from grapes grown in south-central Okanagan. The wine showcases dark fruit flavours that are enhanced by chocolate and spice notes. Its concentrated character and supple texture are balanced by a polished structure and lingering finish. Ripe and age-worthy, the winery has held back inventory to release as a 10-year-old wine to showcase its aging potential. This has 14.9-per-cent ABV and 0.39 r.s. Drink now to 2035. Available at the above price direct, poplargrove.ca, $35.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta, $34.99 in Manitoba.