Three fortified wines to savour this fall

For some people, the cooler temperatures and shorter days of autumn stimulate their appetite for pumpkin spice lattes. Wine lovers meanwhile might reach for bottles with similarly fall-friendly flavours such as caramel, nuts and baking spices. Many fortified wines offer those seasonal notes along with a rich and warming character that adds to their comforting charm when temperatures drop. Here are two sweet styles and one distinctly dry expression that are textbook examples of a wine category that’s often overlooked.

Eight wines to drink in September

Alvear Fino Montilla-Moriles Sherry (Spain), $22.95

Rating: 91

Fino sherry’s zesty, dry and bracing style can be an acquired taste. Its mouthwatering mix of salty, nutty and savoury flavours are thrilling when you know what to expect. Otherwise, they can confuse or repel, tasting more like olive brine than the lemon essence of many dry white wines. The complex character of well-made examples like this one from the Montilla-Moriles region can be appreciated all year round and is best when served chilled. Fino’s delicate flavours lose their freshness quickly, so it’s best to consume an open bottle within a few days. This has 14 per-cent ABV and 3 g/litre r.s. Drink now. Available at the above price in Ontario, $28.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta.

González Byass Nutty Solera Medium Oloroso Sherry (Spain), $21.95

Rating: 90

As Nutty Solera’s name suggests, this Oloroso sherry has sweet and complex flavours based on toasted almonds and hazelnuts with caramel, peach jam and espresso notes. The intense and captivating style displays the rich character of late harvested pedro ximenez grapes and the concentration of extended aging in American oak barrels. This is a terrific aperitif that’s best enjoyed in the cooler months, served slightly chilled. The open bottle will keep for two to three months stored in the refrigerator. This has 20 per-cent ABV and 70 g/litre r.s. Drink now. Available at the above price in Ontario, $21.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta, $18.99 in Manitoba.

Taylor Fladgate 20-Year-Old Tawny Port (Portugal), $72.95

Rating: 95

The rich and refreshing style of this 20-Year-Old Tawny always impresses. There’s considerable depth of flavour and sweetness, with a silky-smooth texture and a fresh and tangy finish. The mix of flavours includes satisfying nutmeg, clove, cherry, dried orange peel and toffee. Thanks to its sweetness and high alcohol content, an open bottle will keep for one or two months in the fridge. This has 20 per-cent ABV and 112 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2036. Available at the above price in Ontario, $77.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta, $77.95 in Manitoba, $76.75 in Quebec, $79.99 in New Brunswick, $64.99 in Nova Scotia, $90.38 in Newfoundland.